It
seems appropriate that as the UK has been bound up in rather melodramatic smog
(complete with drizzle) recently that I turned to a delightfully sunny fragrance for
escape, Caron’s 2013 release – My Ylang.
Caron’s
output is much smaller than that of it’s historic rival – Guerlain. Meaning
that a new release is a rare thing of excitement, my sample should have come
with one of those greeting cards that plays a tune, in this case, a trumpeted
fanfare to announce it’s arrival.
My
Ylang fits neatly into the genre of ‘solar floral’, a term which could be
interpreted in a number of ways. Elena at Perfume Shrine suggests that
molecules called salicylates (which occur naturally in the Ylang Ylang plant) are
a vital component of the solar effect:
“To
the perfume student these molecules present fascinating facets on the path of
creation because salicylates encompass complimentary aspects and aid diffusion,
making fragrances open up and "expand" in a sunny, exhilarating way.
Gardenia, tiaré, and frangipani accords are usually built on salicylates and
their summery vibe warms our heart even in winter.” Perfume Shrine
The ultimate sunshine girl, Bardot.
Typically,
salicylates have been long used in sunscreen lotion which is probably why we
associate perfumes containing these molecules with the joy of the holiday
season. Guerlain’s Lys Soleia and Terracotta fragrances, Estee Lauder’s Bronze
Goddess and Lancaster’s Sunwater all emit a veritable ‘Thomas Cook’ aroma that
remind us of time away from work spent in the throes of heat and decadent
leisure. It’s no wonder we love them.
However,
another association occurs for me as there is a definite whiff of Nivea Crème
radiating from My Ylang. Nivea was for many years my mum’s choice of skincare meaning
that the ‘Nivea note’ signifies love, warmth and protection to me.
This
how it wears:
My
Ylang opens with a gargantuan burst of citrus and ylang. If you’re curious
about what ylang actually smells like, you can take a whiff anywhere that sells
essential oils as it is often used in aromatherapy for it’s anti-depressant and
sensual properties. Oddly, I really dislike it on it’s own but when mixed with
other aromas it becomes a thing of beauty. Mandarin Orange is the only official
listed citrus but there is a ‘bells of St. Clements’ effect similar to that
found in Jour D’Hermes, but significantly less spiky. A little blackcurrant
creeps into the fruit bowl in a very pleasing manner. In recent years this note
has been used in abundance, often paired in a sickly gloop of flat sweetness.
YSL’s Manifesto and Armani’s Si were responsible for creating ‘blackcurrant
haters’ as they introduced to the world their berry puddings, effectively giving
us all olfactory diabetes. When blackcurrant is used in collaboration with barely
sweetened background (as in My Ylang), it offers us a dazzling edge of greenery
and piquancy that ‘lifts’ the composition in a similar fashion to the use of
aldehydes. Paired with a trace hint of lily of the valley, you could can sense
an atmosphere of nature thriving.
My
Ylang is complex, unsurprisingly for Caron who are masters of ‘the journey’
i.e. creating perfumes with a great transformation from start to finish. The
different facets of the scent feel almost as if they are moving, dancing about,
weaving in and out of our perception. Underpinning the dance lies a grounding
base of authentic vanilla that is detectable throughout the journey. It isn’t
particularly sweet, simply warm and comforting. Unlike many other solar
florals, there are no tropical fruit or coconut elements, which keep it a long
way from becoming a genre stereotype.
I’d
recommend My Ylang for those who are seeking a cheering lift, an essence of
summer and a fragrance that offers a multifaceted ride. It does however retail
at a high price. For a less expensive (but not as delightfully complex)
alternative, a similar vibe can be found in Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Lys
Soleia. Failing that you could root out last summer’s flip flops, download The
Isley Brother’s Summer Breeze, sip away at a Pina Colada and hope the weather
looks up.
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